Vikings of the Sunrise - a Journey

Like the subjects of Sir Peter Buck's "Vikings of the Sunrise",  (one of the early Aotearoa/NZ classics), we have had a journey - what a journey. Not over a few thousand years, as the early Polynesian voyagers journeyed, but over a mere two weeks Catherine and I  travelled via Tahiti to the northern-most archipelago of French Polynesia, the Marquesas.

It was fitting that we, and our fellow travellers, had travelled from Aotearoa /New Zealand, the last of the Pacific Islands to be reached on this great oceanic migration.

Catherine's sister, Rosemary and Jim from Sydney joined us . So did Janice and Mal, friends from Hamilton.

We travelled on the Aranui 5, a passenger/freighter which services many islands of French Polynesia. On this voyage it carried 183 passengers and 100 crew. We were a group of 18 (plus our guide, Penny Pickett from  Calder and Lawson). The others were from all over the globe but mainly from Europe. Our ship had two cranes and holds and carried many containers on deck.

The passengers were often 'dragged' away from watching these engaging activities, to other events or trips ashore. These were well planned and included a variety of activities: walks and 4x4 excursions, lunches, cultural experiences, swimming and snorkelling, lagoon cruises and museum and art gallery visits. We were almost always welcomed by the sounds of drums, ukuleles and island chanting. The whole journey was quite exotic.

Shipboard Crane Unloading at Nuku Hiva

At all islands the crew immediately started unloading and loading cargo - either directly onto land or indirectly via barges - depending on the facilities. It was always fascinating to watch the skills of the crew and the different materials being transferred. At Ua Huka there was no wharf and nowhere to anchor so the ship had to do an 180 degree turn and moor between the cliffs.

No Room to Swing at Anchor at Ua Huka

So We Moored to Cliffs on Either Side

... Either Side

For me several experiences stood out. The 15km walk which was a solid 600m climb followed by another more gentle 50m and then a painful (at least for my feet) descent to the coast further up the island of Fatu Hiva at Hanavave. The weather was good, the scenery excellent and there was no racing! For me just plodding, these days!

View inland from the Fatu Hiva Walk

End of the Long Walk
Hanavave, 

C and I enjoyed the Gauguin Museum - nice to see details and reproductions of his work and life.

Catherine at the Gauguin Museum

And Pascal's many excellent talks were very informative. They covered the early migrations from Africa and across the Pacific, the nature of the Vaka (our NZ Waka), the interaction with the early European colonists and the history of tattooing in the Marquesas.

Pascal Erhel in Action

The Big Picture

The Pacific Picture

It was a great trip. One of the better organised journeys we've had. And the food was excellent.

I'd love to add more but my burbling might be too much - let a few more pictures tell a few more thousand words. And thanks to anyone whose photos I have used - there was a lot of generous sharing of photos and other happy banter via our WhatsApp site.

Jim and Rosie Lived Next Door
We Shared a Few Drinkies

Cultural Dance at Nuku Hiva Archeological Site

Roosters Everywhere

Add Some Human Skulls and No Wonder the Spaniards Were Frightened

Last Swim at Tahiti - our first infinity pool!

Lagoon Cruise at Boro Boro

Vikings of the Pacific

Flowers Everywhere Too