Alpine Horse Safaris - Part Three - Mount White Station to Waitohi Downs

Leaving Mt White Station in good weather we wound up to a terrace on the true right of the Esk and proceeded up the valley. We passed the grave of Raymond Marshall one of the early runholders who left the Station after twenty years only to find leaving the high country too much. To our right the Puketeraki Range was snow covered but melting as we rode up-valley.   The Esk was much more attractive than I'd thought it might be.

Riding up the Esk Valley

Cattle Creek Hut

The terraces took us through beech forest, manuka  and tussock country and we lunched at the interestingly named Nigger Hut. From here we crossed the Esk and continued up the Eastern branch to the interesting and historical Cattle Creek Hut in a little clearing - constructed by Lawrie's father from beech logs. It was a comfortable hut with a good supply of firewood and handy water. As usual, first a brew!

Boiling the Billy at Cattle Creek

The following day dawned fine with the prospect of a great day. We wound up the remains of Cattle Creek to the Ashley Head Saddle on the Puketeraki Range - to traverse northwards through shingle and tussock and up over Black Rock for a couple of hours before descending steeply towards the Mt Whitnow Station. It was one of the highlights of the trip, striding atop horses along the top of the "Pukety" Range for a couple of hours - like princes (yes ladies, honorary Princes).

Climbing up the Puketeraki Range

Descending the "Pukety" Range to Mt Whitnow Station

Lawrie's Sidekick, Corrina and her Horse

Our last night out was at Mt Whitnow and next morning we rode north towards the Hurunui River, down its true right banks to Waitohi Downs, Lawrie's Base and farm.

Ginga Greets the Hurunui River - Nearly Home

At the farm we cleaned up and hosed the horses down - "home and hosed" - their mates came down from adjacent paddocks and they all greeted one another over the fence. After a fine (what else from Jenny) meal and a good rest we left for Christchurch and our respective homes. The journey had been a challenging one but the back country splendour, horses, company and friendships (we were a happy group) made it all worthwhile. If, as Lawrie would put it, you are a "tough bastard" I'd recommend the Tekapo Main Divide Expedition thoroughly. Go to Alpine Horse Safaris to find out more including shorter treks in North Canterbury where you don't have to be quite so tough - nor a bastard.

Alpine Horse Safaris - Part Two - Harper / Avoca Retreat to Mt White

BLS / JCS at Wrecked Triangle Hut - Earthquake Damage

Our walk up to Triangle Hut via the flooded Avoca was longer than we thought it was going to be. The old hut was in a sad state and I wouldn't have liked to have been there when the earthquake occurred. Our old fence from 1955 was still standing but not too capable of keeping the sheep out of the upper Avoca.

We returned via a higher terrace and Lake Lilian. That evening John and his mates came over and sang songs and told yarns - quite an entertaining troupe.

Starting from the Retreat - Note Trigger Finger at Ready - Photo JCS

Catherine Being a Horse Hitching Post at the Retreat- Photo JCS

Next morning we saddled up and set off over the flats and over the Harper which was quite full but a short crossing. Stirrups again.

Crossing the Harper River

Catherine Photographing Lake Catherine

We wound our way east past Lake Catherine, lunching briefly (as usual) before climbing steeply up over Coleridge Pass. We descended down towards Porter Heights through subalpine scrub.

Heading Up to Coleridge Pass

The only excitement was one of our riding horses getting stuck in a bog. We left the horses just below Porter Heights and used the O'Carroll's vehicle to take our gear down to Castle Hill Station for the night .

The horses were retrieved the next morning and we rode down through the attractive Castle Hill Basin past where Lawrie had left a crater in the ground a month or so earlier, ending up at the quite luxurious accommodation and Flock Hill. Despite the luxury we were up about 0430 for breakfast and saddling up etc. We headed out over the downs, crossed the main railway line and then down a long ridge to the Waimakariri River - crossing it was no problem. Ginga, my horse, seemed to forget he had me on board when he decided to join the free horses an have a roll in the Waimak sand. I had  one foot out of a stirrup before he remembered where he was and got up again. It felt like being on  a camel again! Roger however managed to capture the moment.

Ginga Thinks He'll Have a Roll in the Sand    -     Photo Roger Dobson

We rode on to Mt White station where we holed up for a day while the snow level came down. Nice warm fire and good company again.