The Middle Range - Kaimanawas

The Middle Range in the Kaimanawas is a fine place for old pensioners to enjoy themselves in the hills.  I've had some very enjoyable trips there, both solo and with family, over the last few years.

South towards Thunderbolt

The first was solo. I went over Umukarikari to the upper Waipakahi river and the next day climbed up onto  Junction Tops and cruised happily along to Thunderbolt, then out to Motutere and down to the middle Waipakahi Valley to camp.  The third day I returned back over Urchin to meet Catherine.  Along the Middle Range I looked down on the impressive upper Rangitikei where I'd had another solo trip from Waiouru, coming out at Kiko Rd some years ago.  Grand feeling, wandering along the tops in good weather (and in good company), with views everywhere.


My second trip was with Catherine. We went over Urchin to camp in the Waipakahi in a delightful little inlet in the bush.  The next day we climbed Motutere in good weather and the third day we returned over Unchin.  Very pleasant trip.

David offers an Old Chap some Water

For the third trip David and I went over Urchin and climbed up to Karikaringa turning northwards on along the middle section of the Range to drop down into the Waipakahi via Moutere.  It rained through the latter part of the trip but we enjoyed the outing.  A short while later David and I repeated this trip in better weather but carried on to camp in a gentle tussocky valley before we reached the turnoff to Motutere.  We carried on the next day northwards up the range over Thunderbolt and along until we dropped down to the hut in the upper Waipakahi. Out over Umukarikari on the last day.

David Descending to Waipakahi Hut

On our last trip David, Warren and I went to the bottom of the Waipakahi Valley and made our way up onto the bottom of the Middle Range and up onto the Needles. The traverse along the range northwards was a big effort for an old chap. We traversed over Patutu and when we descended into the Waipakahi off Karikaringa and arrived on the valley floor to camp - I was exhausted and ravenous.  Only food and hot sweet drink saved the day.  It rained that night and the final day saw us trotting back down the river in dubious weather.

Camp in Tussocky Valley

Warren and David

The Waipakahi is a beautiful valley - one of the best in the North Island. I've been down it several times with family and friends. The last time I went down was with Ron Cox, an old friend from Brisbane days. We went down the upper valley and came out over Unchin. Yes, quite an area.

Tussock

First Tussock above the Bushline

I love tussock;  its position in the scheme of things, usually above the bush line, the presence you always welcome because after pushing through hours of sub alpine scrub the first tussock indicates the arrival of glades between stunted shrubs leading to open country.  This will be the end of your struggle and soon you will be climbing free.  Your view will enlarge and you will look back to your valley floor where you camped last night. You’ll see ahead to the skyline you are seeking.  The tussock will brush past your legs, soft and almost sensuous.

Tussdock Country - Kaimanawas

There are many tussocks ranging from the short straight ones at the highest or driest levels to the tall giant ones you usually find in western valleys.  Here you might step between the clumps and it towers above your head.  But it is always welcome.  I think it is the gentle nature of the plant.  The best is the one about thigh high with gentle curves, easy on the eye.  It has colour too, a mixture of green, yellow and gold.  And in summer the seed heads emerge above it, all drooping and adding to the grace of its being.

In the right light tussock creates shadows.  Whole hillsides soften and the scenery is at its best.  And after snowfall whorls of snow add to the contours of heaven and close-up you marvel at the packing of snow at the base of each tussock.

And tussock provides you with a view of the wind on certain days.  You sit in the shelter of some rocky outcrop and gaze over the tussock fields and sigh at the patterns of wind and the beauty of it all as everything sways and whispers in unison.  Your heart is happy and calm. 

Camp in the Tussock - Kaimanawas

I’ve experienced painful tussock too, usually in early morning, just light enough to see your knees, and you stumble up-valley on rocks slippery with ice and the tussocks, festooned with solid ice rub against your bare legs.  For a short while this is OK but it soon takes on the nature of  torture as the ice turns to fire.  Never mind, the day will warm and the mountains and glaciers will appear in the blue, through the tussock and mist.

I've planted tussock about our patio at home and on most days I can take my cuppa outside and sit tranquilised by the gentle curves and the movement of it.  On the clearest days when there is hardly any wind, the little movement is magnified by the shadows of my tussock seed heads on the concrete.  Even on the windier days the seed heads brush the concrete leaving patterns of leaves, seeds and dust for the eye to enjoy.   As I write this it is dusk.  I look outside at my tussock.  It is perfectly still but still curved.  I hanker for the hills.

Tussock Dance

I have been known to stare

mesmerised while the wind

from the last of a sou-wester

comes about the corners

of our house

from either side

catching the tussock tresses

drifting them from one side

swaying them to the other

catching the last rays

of the reclining sun

in different ways

a sensuous dance.