Vikings of the Sunrise - a Journey

Like the subjects of Sir Peter Buck's "Vikings of the Sunrise",  (one of the early Aotearoa/NZ classics), we have had a journey - what a journey. Not over a few thousand years, as the early Polynesian voyagers journeyed, but over a mere two weeks Catherine and I  travelled via Tahiti to the northern-most archipelago of French Polynesia, the Marquesas.

It was fitting that we, and our fellow travellers, had travelled from Aotearoa /New Zealand, the last of the Pacific Islands to be reached on this great oceanic migration.

Catherine's sister, Rosemary and Jim from Sydney joined us . So did Janice and Mal, friends from Hamilton.

We travelled on the Aranui 5, a passenger/freighter which services many islands of French Polynesia. On this voyage it carried 183 passengers and 100 crew. We were a group of 18 (plus our guide, Penny Pickett from  Calder and Lawson). The others were from all over the globe but mainly from Europe. Our ship had two cranes and holds and carried many containers on deck.

The passengers were often 'dragged' away from watching these engaging activities, to other events or trips ashore. These were well planned and included a variety of activities: walks and 4x4 excursions, lunches, cultural experiences, swimming and snorkelling, lagoon cruises and museum and art gallery visits. We were almost always welcomed by the sounds of drums, ukuleles and island chanting. The whole journey was quite exotic.

Shipboard Crane Unloading at Nuku Hiva

At all islands the crew immediately started unloading and loading cargo - either directly onto land or indirectly via barges - depending on the facilities. It was always fascinating to watch the skills of the crew and the different materials being transferred. At Ua Huka there was no wharf and nowhere to anchor so the ship had to do an 180 degree turn and moor between the cliffs.

No Room to Swing at Anchor at Ua Huka

So We Moored to Cliffs on Either Side

... Either Side

For me several experiences stood out. The 15km walk which was a solid 600m climb followed by another more gentle 50m and then a painful (at least for my feet) descent to the coast further up the island of Fatu Hiva at Hanavave. The weather was good, the scenery excellent and there was no racing! For me just plodding, these days!

View inland from the Fatu Hiva Walk

End of the Long Walk
Hanavave, 

C and I enjoyed the Gauguin Museum - nice to see details and reproductions of his work and life.

Catherine at the Gauguin Museum

And Pascal's many excellent talks were very informative. They covered the early migrations from Africa and across the Pacific, the nature of the Vaka (our NZ Waka), the interaction with the early European colonists and the history of tattooing in the Marquesas.

Pascal Erhel in Action

The Big Picture

The Pacific Picture

It was a great trip. One of the better organised journeys we've had. And the food was excellent.

I'd love to add more but my burbling might be too much - let a few more pictures tell a few more thousand words. And thanks to anyone whose photos I have used - there was a lot of generous sharing of photos and other happy banter via our WhatsApp site.

Jim and Rosie Lived Next Door
We Shared a Few Drinkies

Cultural Dance at Nuku Hiva Archeological Site

Roosters Everywhere

Add Some Human Skulls and No Wonder the Spaniards Were Frightened

Last Swim at Tahiti - our first infinity pool!

Lagoon Cruise at Boro Boro

Vikings of the Pacific

Flowers Everywhere Too

More Old Mens' Mountain Follys - Up the Waimakariri.

 One day at home after the 2024 cycling adventure in Northland - and then off to Christchurch for another return to the Mountains and the old mates.

Jim met me at airport and we took off to Mandeville where we picked up Mike from the long suffering and humane Lyn and travelled up to the Wilson "Rough Creek Shambles" hut at Arthur's Pass. Not too much of a shambles these days and still with a good supply of firewood.

A Little of the RCS Firewood Supply

All the lies were in full swing and next morning we slowly made our way up the Waimakariri from Klondyke Corner in fine weather. There were six walking sticks shared among the three of us and the pace was sedately. We arrived at Anti-Crow hut in time for a late lunch. Later in the afternoon the sprightly Peter Gough (of Mt Cook, Caroline Face fame) and his wife, in their seventies, called in for a yarn on their way up to Barker hut.

Our next day involved getting up to the Crow Valley hut and this was aided by a leisurely lunch and brew-up. We were joined briefly by a solo German youth on his way down valley. He was relieved to find that the smokey smell was not the AP National Park turning into an inferno. The hut was empty and we slumbered peacefully until the next dawn. 

The Mountains of Our Early Youth - Looking Sad

Big Valley or Older Men Shrinking?

Another fine day dawned and Jim and I wandered further up the valley to examine the floral state of the valley and, sadly, the state of the Crow glacier above on Mt Rolleston.  Yes, the glaciers are shrinking. Towards evening a young German couple called in on their way down valley after traversing Mt Avalanche. They too were relieved to find out that the three geriatrics were not burning down the NP with their outdoor brew-ups. They decided to camp outdoors in their new tent (oh, to be that young) and enjoy the ambiance of our campfire - ready made for them. And not be disturbed by the clumping of elderly men emptying their bladders all night.

Leaving the Anti-Crow Hut

Head of the Crow Valley

Crow Glacier About to Become Extinct

Another Campfire

Alive and Well

Crow Hut

Memories were re-lived the following day as we dawdled down valley under the ridges of our youth. These mountains about us were certainly the heydays of our youthful years. But they looked impossibly far away now. We stopped at the grassy Wamak flats where we interviewed a friendly tomtit and brewed yet another cuppa.  What-a-life!

Eight Walking Sticks

Wobbling Along a Bush Path

"Than you for turning the log over for me."

Finally we made it to the car - picked up the young German couple who had passed us in the lower Waimak - returned to the Pass - and told Hughie that he could now do his best. He obliged but not before we had made short work of a tree that had fallen conveniently close to the RCS. And so to Christchurch - and Hamilton for me. But not after another get-to-gether for me in Christchurch with brother John and sister Katie. More lies and reminiscences. And plans for next years adventures too.

Wet Day at the RCS - after the Woodsplitting

A sequel was an item in the Arthur's Pass Newsletter where Jim is known - I was delighted to be described as spritely!

• At the other end of the tramping time scale, Jim Wilson and 2 of his good climbing mates, ventured as far as Crow hut last week. At ages of 89, 87 and a spritely 86, they broke all time records on the return trip from Crow hut to Klondyke corner.

I think the author intended time records for slowness (as indicated in the first phrase)! I thought the real hero was the 89 year old.

Another Boil-up in the Crow Valley

Cycling across Northland (NZ) and Back 2024

 I'd always wanted to cycle the 'Twin Coasts Cycle Trail' as the ride is called. When Doug Arcus asked if I was interested in coming on a tour he had booked on - I didn't linger long about getting a leave pass from home. So off we went. 

Our tour was with Northland Experiences and it was a bit more than just a cycling journey - they mixed in side trips, both biking and walking as well as several stops and talks of historical interest. The name and theme was "Cook to Kupe" - but also covered the early history of New Zealand. My initial thought was that it was more than I had wanted to do, but, not so, it was thoroughly enjoyable, educational and excellent value for money. Everything was supplied - including the bikes.

Aussies Impressed by the Flagship of the NZ Navy

We were a small group of ten - four Aussies and six Kiwis. We got on well and, as you might imagine, we all managed to give and receive the usual trans-Tasman banter - with good humour. Our guide was Jack who looked after us well and, along with other guides along the way, gave us excellent local and historical information.

Northland Countryside along the Cycleway

The tour started from Kerikeri with a visit to Waitangi and we were dropping off at Kaikohe at the start of the trail down to Horeke at the top of the Hokianga. This was a delightful evening in an colonial style refurbished kauri-built house, with delightful hosts. The next day we cycled up to the Wairere Boulder track for a walk of the circuit there. Wonderful stone boulder valley from the volcanic era.

Wairere Boulder Stream

Sunset Over the Tasman

We Did Some Cycling

We then cycled down to Mangungu where we lunched and cycled down to the local pier where we caught the 'Ranui' over to Kohukohu, from whence we cycled inland about a 20 km circuit - finally catching the car ferry to Rawene - and then on to Omapare where we stayed at the Sands for two nights. That night we saw a brilliant sunset over the Tasman. On our day at Omapere we cycled a 25km country circuit, walked in to a waterfall, made friends with a friendly goat and an elephant, fell of our bikes at speed (well one did) and attended an excellent three screen film and an oral presentation on the story of Kupe's and the Maori gods at the Manea Cultural Centre at Opononi. Well worth a visit - by prior arrangement only.

Presentation at Manea - Footprints of Kupe

In the evening we were transported to the Waipoua forest where we walked in to see Te Matua Ngahere and Tane Mahuta - all the more moving for the cultural respect afforded them with chant and song.

Te Matua Ngahere 

On one of my previous visits Maori nose flute music emerged unexpectedly from the surrounding bush. Very moving, especially when we discovered the source of the sound - an elderly Maori in a wheelchair.

Friendly Northland Elephant

Friendly Northland Goat

On our last day we were transported up to Kaitoke and cycled down the old railway (now cycle trail) to Paihia. Our last day was spent at Russel and its environment where we were indulged with lots of the early pre-treaty history of the area - and a visit to Pompallier House site of one of the earliest printing presses and the local tannery. Some of us indulge ourselves with time at the two superb Waitangi Museums. These deserve much more time than we could commit.

Our Happy Group - Hokianga Entrance Behind
Photo credit - Jack

This tour is good value. It provides off the 'normal track' cycling and walking and lots of cultural input. All up, 135km of biking and about 20km of walking. Plus Extras.

Inland South Australia

Back in November last year Catherine and I (along with Margaret, her sister) decided to visit Adelaide and outback areas to the north. We started by staying with Pam, an Aussie friend from C's veterinary days. Pam, the perfect hostess, feted us about Adelaide (it really is a beautiful city) and took us out to the nearby Onkaparinga (remember the blankets!) National Park where we all enthused about the wild orchids which were in abundance.

Onkaparinga River near Pam's Place

Orchids in Onkaparinga NP

Finally we joined up with our tour with an evening on the southern coast of Adelaide. Next morning we headed north through Port Augusta ending the day at Wilpena Village and the next day walked into the Wilpena Pound itself - an impressive feature. The distances and structure are huge as we found out the next day when we visited Arkaroola where we gazed, via their astronomical telescopes into the universe - and the following morning when we toured the nearby ranges by 4WD. The geology and land structures were the feature of that day.

Outer Edge of Wilpena Pound

Arkaroola Area

Onwards we travelled - this time arriving at Maree, further west and at 30 degrees, (Celsius and damn near Latitude South 29.6). From here we took a plane flight over Lake Eyre - which was starting to dry-up again but was at an aesthetically impressive stage with patterns of colour and formations of islands, banks and shorelines. Throughout our journey there were flowers blooming at different stages and degrees - very beautiful.

Salty Edge of Lake Eyre

Another long day took us to Coober Pedy - at the end of the day though fields of Parakelia in flower. We stayed in an underground suite and next day toured the mine workings both above and below ground. The afternoon was one of the highlights of our journey when we visited the "drop off" - an area on the edge of the hills where all the colours of the earth are revealed - an artists paradise.

Artist's Paradise at the Drop-off

Our last day back to Adelaide was long with stops at Woomera and a winery for lunch. Large areas of cropping were a feature of the day. Finally a dinner and welcome rest in our original hotel.

Sturt's Desert Pea

Desert Rose

Pam, indeed, had not finished with us - more visits in town to catch up with other friends and to the orchids again which were in even greater profusion. Very good trip.

Spider Orchid

Thelimitra sp.

More trips to come! If we are spared.

Local Sniffing the Parakelia