12 March 2024

Cycling across Northland (NZ) and Back 2024

 I'd always wanted to cycle the 'Twin Coasts Cycle Trail' as the ride is called. When Doug Arcus asked if I was interested in coming on a tour he had booked on - I didn't linger long about getting a leave pass from home. So off we went. 

Our tour was with Northland Experiences and it was a bit more than just a cycling journey - they mixed in side trips, both biking and walking as well as several stops and talks of historical interest. The name and theme was "Cook to Kupe" - but also covered the early history of New Zealand. My initial thought was that it was more than I had wanted to do, but, not so, it was thoroughly enjoyable, educational and excellent value for money. Everything was supplied - including the bikes.

Aussies Impressed by the Flagship of the NZ Navy

We were a small group of ten - four Aussies and six Kiwis. We got on well and, as you might imagine, we all managed to give and receive the usual trans-Tasman banter - with good humour. Our guide was Jack who looked after us well and, along with other guides along the way, gave us excellent local and historical information.

Northland Countryside along the Cycleway

The tour started from Kerikeri with a visit to Waitangi and we were dropping off at Kaikohe at the start of the trail down to Horeke at the top of the Hokianga. This was a delightful evening in an colonial style refurbished kauri-built house, with delightful hosts. The next day we cycled up to the Wairere Boulder track for a walk of the circuit there. Wonderful stone boulder valley from the volcanic era.

Wairere Boulder Stream

Sunset Over the Tasman

We Did Some Cycling

We then cycled down to Mangungu where we lunched and cycled down to the local pier where we caught the 'Ranui' over to Kohukohu, from whence we cycled inland about a 20 km circuit - finally catching the car ferry to Rawene - and then on to Omapare where we stayed at the Sands for two nights. That night we saw a brilliant sunset over the Tasman. On our day at Omapere we cycled a 25km country circuit, walked in to a waterfall, made friends with a friendly goat and an elephant, fell of our bikes at speed (well one did) and attended an excellent three screen film and an oral presentation on the story of Kupe's and the Maori gods at the Manea Cultural Centre at Opononi. Well worth a visit - by prior arrangement only.

Presentation at Manea - Footprints of Kupe

In the evening we were transported to the Waipoua forest where we walked in to see Te Matua Ngahere and Tane Mahuta - all the more moving for the cultural respect afforded them with chant and song.

Te Matua Ngahere 

On one of my previous visits Maori nose flute music emerged unexpectedly from the surrounding bush. Very moving, especially when we discovered the source of the sound - an elderly Maori in a wheelchair.


Friendly Northland Elephant

Friendly Northland Goat

On our last day we were transported up to Kaitoke and cycled down the old railway (now cycle trail) to Paihia. Our last day was spent at Russel and its environment where we were indulged with lots of the early pre-treaty history of the area - and a visit to Pompallier House site of one of the earliest printing presses and the local tannery. Some of us indulge ourselves with time at the two superb Waitangi Museums. These deserve much more time than we could commit.

Our Happy Group - Hokianga Entrance Behind
Photo credit - Jack

This tour is good value. It provides off the 'normal track' cycling and walking and lots of cultural input. All up, 135km of biking and about 20km of walking. Plus Extras.





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